This is also called the Yengutz Peak in addition to Spantik Peak. The Spantik is the part of the mountain chain, which forms the boundary between Hunza-Nager and Baltistan in one of the quieter parts of the Karakorum. The people from Hunza and Nagar Valley called the mountain GOLDEN PEAK/GOLDEN PILLAR for this side. Viewed from Hunza-Karimabad, the sun setting on Golden Pillar is a truly remarkable sight. The ascend of the Pillar from this side, difficult through North Pillar that is technical route, first climbed by British mountaineers in 1987.
The other side (from Skardu-Balistan) of the mountain is less daunting and offers a route to the summit that more of climbers achieve. On this side Spantik Peak is at the head of CHOGOLUNGME GLACIER in Arandu Valley- Skardu. It is usually climbed from Chogolungme Glacier (Arandu side), via the relatively easy long South East Ridge that is called NORMAL
The climb along the South East Ridge is the most achievable route of any 7000M Peak in the Pakistani Karakorum. This route is generally considered a safe and technically easy route and has become the obvious target for commercially organized expeditions looking for straightforward ascent to 7000M. The ridge rises 2700M over its 8-Km length affording several safe camp-sites. The climb through long and arduous is not technically difficult. The average gradient is 30 to 45 degree but there some short steps that provide some climbing interest.
Time Summary:
Day 01: Arrival to Islamabad
Day 02-04: Transfers to Skardu and preparation
Day 05-08: Transfers to the Base Camp
Day 09-23: Climbing and acclimatization
Day 24 -29: Return to Islamabad via Skardu
Day 30: Departure from Islamabad